Tuesday 14th April 2015 –
Day at Sea.
It is cool
with intermittent rain today. We had a late breakfast and went up to the Atlantic
room for a coffee. Here we heard a full account about how a gentleman passenger
died yesterday during a tour to the Zulu village. – Very sad.
Our final
rehearsal for the choir started half an hour early and we just about made the
songs acceptable before our performance. Come back Catherine!!
We received
the news that FW de Klerk (Nobel prize-winner and former President of South Africa)
was joining the ship tomorrow in Port Elizabeth for a lecture followed by a
Q&A session - before getting off again when we arrive in Cape Town.
(Typical! We actually get off the ship in Port Elizabeth for our overland “Garden
Route” safari, re-joining it in Cape Town. So, we’ll miss him!)
In the
evening we went to see “The Equaliser” starring Denzel Washington. It was a
remake of the Edward Woodward TV series and we didn’t think it was as good.
Towards the end of the film the ship got a little “lumpy” so we decided to
leave as Nesta wanted to “investigate” (i.e. have a cigarette!)
It was pouring
down and the water in the swimming pools was cascading across the decks! In
view of this, Nesta decided to go back to the cabin and have an early night –
we do have to get up at 5-30am in the morning after all! (This is because the
passengers doing overland tours have to go through South African immigration
again … why?)
Wednesday 15th April 2015 –
Port Elizabeth for the Overland Garden Route.
The ship
parked on time, and we got up and charged off at 6am to the Connexions Room for
our immigration inspection as requested. When we got there we were informed by
a shame-faced officer that the authorities had changed their minds! We could
have had another two hours sleep!
We met up
with the twelve other passengers going on the Garden Route, were taken to our
luxury coach and we set out at 8-30am. Our guide is called Scott and our driver
is Mohinder
After a
non-scheduled tour of Port Elizabeth (Scott had forgotten to bring water
bottles, so we had to go to his house to pick them up) it was out on to the N2
highway. Our first stop was the Tsitsikamma National Park at the aptly named Storms
River Mouth. We walked around the headland to the mouth of the river and saw
some spectacular waves breaking over the rocks. It was colder than anticipated
and also rained so we were soon back on the coach and heading down the coast to
the seaside town of Plettenberg Bay.
We booked
into the five-star hotel in time for a very nice three course lunch with
panoramic views over the bay from the restaurant.
We had a
huge room, complete with four poster bed, and a terrace which led to an
infinity swimming pool 10 metres away. Unfortunately, it was a little cold for
swimming but we did go for a walk to the nearby beaches. It felt a lot “safer”
than in Durban – but we did see security guards everywhere.
The hotel
had free internet so Ian updated the laptop whilst Nesta enjoyed a luxurious
soak in the massive bath. Soon it was time for more food – this time a four
course dinner – and then we decided to have a quiet night. (The weather had
other ideas as we were woken up by a tremendous thunder clap followed by torrential
rain. Glad we were on land, in this weather, rather than on board ship!)
Thursday 16th April 2015 –
Overland Garden Route and Safari.
During
breakfast Colin Norton (one of the other passengers) saw on his tablet that the
visit of the QM2 to Port Elizabeth was front page news in the local paper. Upon
reading the story, however, we were shocked to learn that a second passenger
has died - this time shortly after returning to the ship from a trip ashore.
From
Plettenberg it was back on the N2 until we came to the Little Brak River
turnoff. From there it was a thirty minute drive to the Botlierskop Game
Reserve.
We were
greeted to a glass of champagne on a terrace overlooking the reserve where we
were given our itinerary. We noticed that it said “beverages extra” so brought
this to the attention of the staff – as when we booked we were told there were
to be complimentary beers and wines… After checking with the management we were
informed that local beers and wines were indeed complimentary so we decided to
take them up on it by ordering a very nice Shiraz to accompany lunch!
After lunch
we were escorted to our tents (not the sort that Ian can remember from his time
as a scout) these had air conditioning (which worked as a heater as well) a sunken
bath, electric blankets, Wi-Fi and even an outdoor shower! (Fortunately it was
a little too cold to try this out!) Each of the tents were in their own private
area of land and the staff also laid on golf-carts to take the more elderly of
our number to their tent. (Unfortunately, we were deemed fit enough not to need
the golf-carts…)
At 3pm we
met up for our first safari. We climbed aboard two Toyota Landcruisers and went
in search of elephants. We found a family of four in one of the valleys and
watched them for about 20 minutes. The Rangers (ours was called Marco) kept us
informed of what was on the Reserve and what we were likely to see. Next it was
off to the Rhinoceros compound. These animals are protected by law but poaching
is such a menace (even on private reserves) that they have to be carefully
monitored. Their horns are cut off to discourage attacks from poachers (one
rhino horn is reputedly worth about two million rand), there are trackers in
the bush 24 hours a day to keep an eye on them and, every two days, a
helicopter flies over the park to count them! Even with all this monitoring,
Marco said that it is likely that rhinos in the wild will become extinct in
South Africa by the year 2025 - because in a country with 40% rural
unemployment, someone is always going to take a chance to get rich… How sad.
We saw lots
of different antelopes, wildebeest, ibis and zebras and were in time to see giraffes
walking into the sunset as they made their way into a different valley for the
night. Just as dusk approached, the trucks turned into bars and spirits, beers
and wine were served! Ian had a couple of whiskies and Nesta vodka and tonic
followed by an introduction to Amurulu (A bit like Baileys). It is made from
the Murula fruit that grows on trees in the Reserve and which are actually the
elephants’ favourite snack!
It was dark
when we returned to our tents and there was just enough time to change for
dinner. On the menu there was crocodile tails, ostrich and game sausages but we
decided that we would stick with zebra and gemsbok steaks! All washed down, of
course, with the complimentary wine…
We didn’t
spend too much time talking after dinner as we had a 5-30am alarm call booked
for our early morning safari!
Friday 17th April 2015 –
Overland Garden Route and Safari.
We woke
before the alarm went off and had fun trying to find our clothes! Although the
tent had electricity, lighting was limited to two bedside lights and down
lighters in the bathroom – not enough to illuminate the sides of the tent where
our suitcase was!
At 6-15am we
were back on the trucks – all wrapped up against the cold – and were even given
a hot water bottle each (in a zebra patterned cover) to help us all keep warm
until the sun got up!
Marco drove
us to the far side of the reserve where the lions live. There are three animals
here, two lionesses who are sisters and a male called “Chris!” They were all
rescued from a breeding programme and are living out their lives here. In the
wild, cubs stay with the mother for at least two years, in which time they are
taught how to be a lion. They then leave the family and fend for themselves.
Lionesses usually produce cubs when they are six years old and then again when
they’re eight and eleven. In captivity the cubs are taken from the mother at
six months and bred repeatedly from the age of two. When they are too old they
are sold to hunting companies who charge (mostly Japanese, Chinese and
American) “hunters” mega bucks to shoot them!
Chris and
the girls need to be fed every two weeks as they never learned how to hunt -
but the sight of them roaming across the bush at dawn was awesome. Apparently
lions only roar at sunrise and sunset and because we were there in time we got
to hear their chorus! (Nesta also remembered to turn on the record button on
the camera – so we have the proof!)
We left the
enclosure and drove up a steep track to a plateau overlooking Mossel Bay for
African Hot Chocolate amongst the zebras. African Hot Chocolate differs from
the traditional drink in that Amurulu is used instead of milk! Although it was
only 7-30am about half a dozen passengers decided to try this concoction and
even the Rangers seemed impressed!
The African “Big
Five” consists of Elephant, Water Buffalo, Lion, Rhinoceros and Leopard and it
is only the Leopard which is missing from this Reserve. The Buffalo however are
not too sociable and took a bit of finding. According to Marco they are more
dangerous and unpredictable than lions and after mosquitos and hippos are the
third biggest killers of humans. We eventually found a group but it was
noticeable that Marco stayed in the truck to give his commentary!
Eventually
we went back to the Lodge for a 9-30am breakfast after which it was back to the
tent to pack, in time for an eleven o’clock check out.
The
itinerary said that we would now walk to the Day Safari Lodge (where there is a
souvenir shop) before another three course luncheon… None of us were hungry in
the slightest - so Scott asked if a packed lunch could be made up which would
enable us to have a few extra stops during the five hour journey to Cape Town.
One of these
extra shops was at a “Bottle Shop” (off-licence) which was duly cleared out of
their stocks of Amurulu!
The scenery
was still spectacular, although different. We passed through the farming belt
with their acres and acres of wheat and quinoa. There were also lots of farms
with both beef and dairy cattle and sheep. It looked a bit like the M6 going
through the Lake District at times. The next area was the apple growing belt
(yes, Nesta did buy some cider!) and, before the range of mountains which
protect Cape Town, finally a wine producing area.
We travelled
through Sir Lowry’s Pass and stopped at the top to take pictures of the Cape Flats
and the city in the distance. It was very windy but fortunately the wind was
blowing in the right direction – Scott says there has been instances of cars
being blown off the road here.
We safely
descended and then drove through the townships on the outskirts of Cape Town.
They are made up of metal shacks (which are too hot in the summer and too cold
in the winter) with plastic roofs secured by rocks – They were, however, were
all connected to electricity cables and we noticed that most of them had
satellite dishes! Social housing is being built but, as fast as a family can be
rehoused, another one has moved into the original shack. There doesn’t seem to
be an easy answer as there is not enough work to go round and yet migrants are
still coming in from rural areas and even from abroad. (Incidentally we saw on
the news that riots had occurred in Durban the day after we left - as black
South Africans were protesting that their jobs were being taken by immigrants
from Nigeria and Somalia)
After experiencing
rush hour in Cape Town, we made it back to the ship at 6-30pm. We were welcomed
back with a free glass of champagne in the Verve Clicquot Bar (One of our
favourite waiters, Ryan, managed to produce a few more!) and we all said our
goodbyes to Scott. What a great experience!
Strangely we
didn’t feel like eating in the restaurant and as we had had three “full-on”
days we decided that we would unpack and have an early night.