Sunday 24^th February – Iguazu trip.

Got off the ship at 11-45am and took the shuttle bus to the terminal. There is another big ship embarking, so there are people everywhere.

Eventually we saw a man holding up an “Ashworth” sign and got into a taxi for what was a five minute trip to the main bus station…We were given our tickets and told that our bus would leave at 2-15pm from somewhere between gates 37 to 55! He also warned us to take care as pick-pockets roam the bus station, so we spent the next two hours sitting with our luggage!

When our bus arrived, we found out that seats numbered 11 and 12 were not downstairs but were actually upstairs… as Ellie will testify the upstairs of one of these busses can “move around a bit” so we were a little unhappy - especially as we had booked downstairs tickets months ago.

Ian phoned “Audley” in Buenos Aires who couldn’t do anything about it but promised to see what they could do for the return trip on Monday night.

The journey was fine and Nesta took a sleeping tablet so did manage to sleep.

 

Monday 25^th February – Iguazu trip.

Arrived at 7-30am and took a taxi to the Sheraton Hotel, which is inside the national park, and checked into our day room.

Set off immediately to catch the train to the “Devil’s Mouth”. The weather was very hot and humid even at 9am.

We then walked the upper and lower circuits and had over four hours exploring the falls. They weren’t as big as we were expecting but they were certainly spectacular!

When we got back to our room there was a bottle of wine in there from “Audley” so we had a shower, a glass or two of wine, followed by our included lunch overlooking the falls and then had a sleep!!

We decided not to get the boat to underneath the falls and when we saw the plight of Tom and Jerry-Lou from the ship when they returned, felt it was a good idea! They were drenched to the skin and faced the prospect of travelling back to the ship in wet clothes… Oh well! Jerry-Lou bought new shorts and a t-shirt but Tom decided to “man” it out and travel damp!

At 4pm we received a phone call from the agent who said she had managed to transfer us onto another bus back to Buenos Aires which had downstairs seats available. We were collected from the hotel at 6pm and taken to the bus station for our 7pm departure.

Journey was good if a bit alcoholic! At 8pm the steward came round and asked if we wanted a whiskey… we were then served a 3 course meal at 9pm and at 10pm he came round again with glasses of champagne! We both slept well!

 

                    There's a lot of water!

                         Don't stand too near the edge!

                                        D'oh!!

Well, we thought we'd spent a long time on coaches - we needed a picture! Still smiling...

Thursday 21^st February – Puerto Madryn, Argentina.

Woke up just before 8am – just in time to watch Voyager “park”.

Got collected from the hotel at 10am and driven round the one-way system to be deposited 100 yds. from where he picked us up! There was shuttle bus to take us along the pier to the ship (we has actually walked this the day before, but there were now armed guards around!) BUT – not so simple”

As we were embarking, we had to wait for the Port Authorities to pick us up and take us a couple of miles down the road to the commercial pier where our luggage was scanned (took all of two minutes) and then we were driven back to the ship.

We arrived in the middle of a crew emergency drill but Nino still managed to shout “I’ll put your wine in to chill for tonight!”

A lot of crew and passengers seemed genuinely pleased to see us again and we were regaled with tales of storms, not being able to land in Port Stanley and “we haven’t seen the sun for 6 days” etc.

Had a little issue with transferring photos onto the computer but George in the camera shop has lent us a lead so hopefully all will be well.

Friday 22^nd February – Day at Sea.

Warm and sunny today. Nesta didn’t sleep too well last night as she had to get used to the ship’s random movements and noises again.

Enjoyed a Mongolian Stir Fry on the Lido deck for lunch and then attended the Captain’s farewell party for the passengers who get off in Buenos Aires. We managed quite a few free fizzy wines and together with our chilled bottle of Malbec slept well… (or at least, Nesta did until 3am when it got a bit windy and rocky). She was awake until 6-30am but then managed to sleep until 11-15am!

 

Now the sun is back - we have a Mongolian stir-fry(?) on board. The rest of the passengers are much older than us!!

Saturday 23^rd February – Day at Sea.

Another day spent at sea as we head to Buenos Aires and the end of our fifth cruise! We’re now more than half way through our travels and time seems to be going faster.

Having said that, though, the Captain seems to have mislaid Buenos Aires as we didn’t turn into the River Plate until evening and for most of the day we were heading straight for Montevideo!

Attended the farewell “Mr Bridge” do and then had an early night in preparation for our next overland trip starting tomorrow to the Iguazu Falls!

Tuesday 19^th February – Puerto Madryn.

 

Bus arrived an hour and a half later than advertised.  Taxi driver seemed to have given up waiting and we had to phone to get someone to come for us.  Hotel Peninsula Valdes is right on the beach and appears to be opposite the pier where Voyager will dock.

Nesta went to tourist information for a town map and was told that NO cruise ships are due until a Princess one on the 24^th – Panic!

After phone calls to Voyages of Discovery and e mails to the Port Agent we ascertained this was not the case and Voyager is due to arrive on the 21^st.  Ian’s’ blood pressure returned to normal!

Had a little explore.  It is a sunny 27C here but still windy.  Glad we packed that one T shirt each just in case!

                        Ian from where the ship will dock - Puerto Madryn in the background

                             It doesn't look like it - but cruise ships do park here!!

Wednesday 20^th February – Puerto Madryn.

 

Slept well, another lovely sunny day here.  Received an e mail from the ship to say after a rather rough day/night they had been unable to land in Port Stanley but are on their way to us here.  I think we made the right choice with our overland – thanks Kay and Audley!

Had a leisurely breakfast and then went to suss out the alcohol at the local supermarket… a litre of Stella Artois for £2-50 and a litre of gin for just over £4. Needless to say we will make some purchases! We also bought a Patagonian Penguin corkscrew and bottle-opener. (Wonder if we’ll find a use for it??)

Before lunch, Nesta went for a paddle whilst Ian sorted out the blog.

                                 No ship yet !!

                           Nesta going for a paddle in the South Atlantic!

Wednesday 13^th February – Day at Sea, cruising the Chilean Fjords.

Back into calmer waters (thankfully) after waves of 4 metres last night meant that the ship pitched, rolled and banged all night!

The ship went through “Englishman’s Passage” and into the Straits of Magellan.

We were cold, wet and miserable but the place and scenery were awesome!!

Bit tired today, but as sea was calm - we both slept well!

                                 Englishman's Passage on the ship's map

                                      Us going through the passage

                                            We're quite close to land!

Thursday 14^th February – Day at Sea, Strait of Magellan.

Set the alarm for 7am this morning so that we could see the Brujo Glacier which come right down to the sea.

It was spectacular, but it is still cold and raining…

 

 

Nesta got the jips about sailing around Cape Horn – so not a very romantic valentine’s day!

Diagnosed with ‘cabin fever’ after 4 days on the ship with prospect of 4 more sea days!

Friday 15^th February – Our Patagonian Adventure! – Punta Arenas, Chile.

Ian phoned Kay at 8-30am to ask if we could get off at Punta Arenas and re-join the ship on 21^stin Puerto Madryn, Argentina.

After she recovered, Kay said she’d see what she could do!

Three hours later she phoned back to tell us it was a goer! So off we got at 2.30 and had a 3 hour taxi transfer to Puerto Natales, Chile. Several of the crew who shall remain nameless wanted to come with us!

Hotel CostAustralis right on the lake side with spectacular views. Good bar and bar snacks which we availed ourselves of including a free drink. Nesta enjoyed her first bath since leaving Portsmouth!!! Still very windy and glad NOT to be sailing.

                                       Nesta in Punta Arenas, Chile

                               Ian and dogs (not Nesta!) in Terra del Fuego

                                 A Rhea (South American bird - again, not Nesta!)

                                        View from hotel at Puerto Natales

 

Saturday 16^th February – Puerto Natales to El Calafate. (Chile to Argentina!)

Collected from hotel at 7.45 and taken to bus station.  Found the bus!  Shared coach journey for 6 hours with the ‘backpacking crowd’.  We could give 30 years to the next oldest people.  It took an hour and a half to clear both the border posts.

Scenery is flat scrubby ‘steps’ and the wind continues to blow.  At least it has stopped raining and the sun is out.

Met on our arrival and taken to Andina tours office.  It turns out our relaxing day at the glacier tomorrow is due to start at 7am and involves NOT an optional stroll but a 2 hour mini trek wearing crampons!!  We have declined, and changed to the more leisurely 9am trip.

 

Had a walk round and found the Laguna Nimez which is a bird watchers paradise (apparently!). Saw lots of birds, but didn't know the names of any!!

Our hotel here is the rustic Patagonia Rebelde hostel.   Basic, but clean and comfortable.

A bit of a walk down an unmade road into town centre where we enjoyed an Argentinian Pizza!  Better than the Peruvian ones.  Had an early night and caught up on more sleep.

                                          World famous - apparently...

                                          Can you spot any birds??

Sunday 17^th February – Perito Moreno glacier, Argentina. (Ship rounding Cape Horn).

Had a tour of El Calafate whilst picking up lots of other people from their hotels for shared coach excursion to the National Park and Glacier.  This lot are much more our age!  Saw lots of Condors flying and one also landed nearby to have its photograph taken!  A clear day, one of the 30 per year when you can see the tops of the mountains says our guide.

We declined a boat trip to the glacier and spent a leisurely 3 hours strolling the ‘balconies’.  Ian counted over 1,000 steps we negotiated up and down the levels. 

The glacier was named after an explorer called Moreno and Perito means expert – a bit of a misnomer when we were informed he didn’t actually get to this glacier!  The face is over 6kms long and up to 65metres high in places – spectacular.  We witnessed several big ice falls, but never when the camera was ready!!!

After returning to El Calafate, which is so named after the Berber bushes, the only wood found in the area by early explorers - we went to a recommended restaurant, which also just happened to be the nearest to our hostel where we enjoyed the shared meat plate.  Delicious Tenderloin and rump steak and local lamb.  We had to wash this down with the local Malbec of course.  An enjoyable evening which made the walk back to the hostel seem much less onerous!

 

 

                                      Condors flying (if you look hard enough!)

                          The Condor has landed! (4 metre wing span, apparently) a big bird!

                                    Nesta with the Moreno Glacier in the background

                                It goes back up the valley for miles

                              The glacier is still growing - but only a few metres a century

                                          Ian - cold but happy!!

                                         The splash - just after a big bit broke off!!

        Lake Argentina with the tops of the mountains that are only visible 30 days a year

                                        Watch out - there's a glacier behind you!!

                                   Gives you an idea how big it is - that's a boat down there!

 

Monday 18^th February – El Calafate to Rio Gallegos.

 

We took some photos of the hotel in the morning and when we got back we had had a phone call from Audley's Agent in Argentina, a Ms Incoming (yes, her real name), informing us that as we are such seasoned South American travellers now we do not need help to change buses at Rio Gallegos!  Taxi driver put us on correct first bus and off we went.  All South American buses do in our experience have a timetable but always run late and this was no exception.  We arrived safely and even had time for a coffee in the bus station cafeteria.  Nesta was tired and was heard saying to the check in desk ‘sorry I don’t speak English’, which luckily the clerk ignored and explained to us in English where and when our next bus left!  In reality we only had to choose from two neighbouring buses and got it right!

Another bizarre journey.  Just as we were getting ready to settle for the night at about 22.30 two trays and a 3 course meal arrived, accompanied by a polystyrene cup of red wine!  It helped Nesta sleep anyway. 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                 Our hotel in El Calafates (based on a railway station - but there's no railway!!)

                                    The lounge in the hotel

                                           Inside our hotel

Our hotel room - looks like Ian is in jail!!

 

 

 

 

Monday 11^th February – Puerto Chacabuco, Chile.

Hadn’t booked any shore trips today. We had planned to potter ashore, have a look around and use the free WI-FI in the port. But, as Brigadier Ian Gardiner pointed out in his really interesting lecture about planning in wartime, “no plan survives the first contact with the enemy”. The port was closed when we arrived so we sat at anchor all day in rain and with gusts of wind touching 30mph. We decided to give the tender trips a miss, sort out our photos and update the blog. – Pretty good choice when we saw all the bedraggled passengers returning to the ship!!

In the evening the planned outdoor “hot Chile party” had to take place inside because of the weather but we danced the night away with the 50 or so passengers who tried this phenomenon of staying up past 9pm!!

Not surprisingly we slept well that night…

                                          Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

 

 

Tuesday 12^th February – Laguna San Rafael, Chile.

This is our extra trip now that we’re not going to Ushuaia. As we said previously a 3 hr. catamaran trip in the mist and rain to look at a glacier didn’t do it for us, so we had another lazy day. (It’s almost beginning to be like we’re on holiday!!)

The Chilean Lake District seems very like the English one – i.e. brilliant, if the sun came out!

Never mind – perhaps the good weather is waiting for us at Cape Horn…

We’ve decided to have another “posh” dinner in the Explorer Restaurant tonight, so I suppose wine will have to be drunk!

Nesta and Ian’s travel diary – Natural Wonders of South America.

 

Thursday 7^th February – Valparaiso, Chile

Cancelled our vineyard and wine-tasting trip because the ship changed it to the morning and we wanted to see the kids off.

We walked from the cruise terminal to their hotel and then Nesta, Fiona and Ellie walked back to see sea lions basking on an old section of pier.

Taxi driver picked up the kids at 1pm to take them back to Santiago and the flight home.

We waved them off and went for a walk along the prom towards Vina del Mar. It was hot but with a nice breeze. Back on board in time for another life boat drill!

Have discovered that whilst we were away, the ship had an outbreak of a tummy bug which laid a lot of people low and now means that there is no self-service food. Also, a rope got entangled around the ships propellers causing noisy shuddering and necessitating divers having to go down and free them! I don’t know – we go away for a holiday and the whole thing falls apart!

 

                                            The view from the kids hotel in Valparaiso

                                    Fortunately there was no Tsunami alert whilst we were there

 

                                                  Sea Lions basking in the sun at Valparaiso

Friday 8^th February – Day at Sea.

Start of our 5^th cruise and it’s time for the award winning lecture programme to begin again. After hearing their introductions, some of them sound quite good!

Nesta joined the choir at sea again as the new people seem more like Tom from the first cruise. There is about 60 members in total of which 20+ are men (unheard of, apparently).

Managed to get to both sessions of the captain’s welcome party, so we could actually say goodbye to him – he is leaving the ship at the next port, when Captain Alex gets on.

With the amount of (free) wine consumed, we slept well!

 

Saturday 9^th February – Day at sea.

Have a Ms Pinochet (!) aboard selling Lapis Lazuli jewellery.

We have been told that we are not now going to Ushuaia as the thinking is we are more likely to be allowed into Argentina after we have visited the Falklands if we give it a miss. Instead we are going to call in at Laguna San Rafael where the only trip is to be tendered to a catamaran which will then sail to a sea glacier. At £50 a head for 2 hours, we think we’ll give it a miss and look at the glacier from the ship!

Ate in the Discovery Restaurant late but still had to wait for a table – they haven’t quite got this open dining right yet! We need to get Patrick back to sort them out!!

Didn’t finish eating until 10-30pm so it was too late to go to the show!

 

Sunday 10^th February – Puerto Montt, Chile.

Full day excursion today with a guide named Maria. She reminded us of Silvia because she obviously enjoyed her job and made the day very interesting.

Weather not kind to us and even though we went up to the top of an active volcano the clouds were low so we couldn’t see much. (Although the café there did sell a very nice hot chocolate and brandy!)

The falls we went to see were more a series of rapids, but quite interesting and the town of Puerto Varas which we visited was quite sophisticated - which was a surprise in this bleak part of the country. It also had a supermarket where we bought Pisco Mango and tonic water… Result!

 

                                                           Puerto Montt, Chile

 

                                                         The rapids we went to see

Maria’s description of Argentinians was amusing. “Never think you will understand Argentinians. Think of them as a bunch of Italians, speaking Spanish but wanting to be French”!

The ship was weaving in and out of fjords during the night which meant it rolled a bit when it came out to sea.

Didn’t sleep well as a result – will need to drink a bit more alcohol I think!!

Sunday 3^rd February – Puno and the Uros Islands.

The service provided by Audley doesn’t seem as good here. Carmen didn’t seem very interested and Maria (our guide on the trip to the Uros Islands) was actually taking part in the big dancing competition between the local villages that was part of the Puno Festival that afternoon, so she was in a rush to get back – so, no tip for her then! We felt that all she did was the bare minimum, which was a disappointment after our great experience with Silvia in Cusco.

We did, though, have more surreal experiences…To get to the boat for the trip; we were taken in pairs on local bike taxis and ended up being part of a parade of locals going to the festival! At one point we were being filmed by other tourists!

The Uros islands were interesting (and at least none of us got our feet wet, Graeme!!) but were a bit voyeuristic as we were invited into people’s homes to see how they live. A little uncomfortable - but we bought some embroidery and Rebecca even managed to bargain in Spanish!!

In the afternoon, we caught a bus for the relatively short journey of only six hours to Arequipa!

We were met there by Hernando and taken to a characterful, but basic hotel.

Unfortunately we had to complain about the coach trip as when she got on; Ellie’s seat belt was covered in vomit… There was also no vegetarian food, so the girls had nothing to eat.

                                                             These were our taxis!

                                                          The island we visited

                                        People do live there - the guide books say they don't

                                                                mmm - no comment!

                                                      The crowds at the festival in Puno

Monday 4^th February – Arequipa to Tacna, Peru and on to Arica, Chile.

We arrived in Arequipa in the dark and left in the dark so unfortunately didn’t see much of this famous “white city”!

A 7 hr. coach journey today through desolate volcanic landscape down to Tacna. Hernando travelling with us so at least we had a Spanish speaker. Still no vegetarian food though L

At Tacna Hernando ordered two taxis for the 30k trip across the border to Arica in Chile.

Really nice hotel with swimming pool and is right on the beach so we had an afternoon of well-deserved R&R!!

Ate dinner in the hotel and said goodbye to Hernando. No idea of who is meeting us in the morning or how long the journey will be. Nesta’s not happy!!!

                                                        The girls room at the hotel in Arriquipa

 

Tuesday 5^th February – Arica to Santiago and then on to Valparaiso.

Stressful start to the day as when the driver arrived at the hotel to take us to the bus station we discover that the journey time is 28 hrs. and the coaches here do not do vegetarian meals.

Ian tried to phone the Chilean contact number with no success and in the end phoned Mark in Peru who tried to help get Fi and Ellie some food!

Kay in Bideford phoned five minutes before the coach departed to say that Chilean coaches do not offer vegetarian alternatives and could the girls perhaps stock up on crisps and pop etc. during stops.

As it happened, some of the food on the bus was ok – we managed to get our luggage on and off at the right places and Nesta even managed to get some cigarettes!

It was a long journey through 1000k of the Atacama – but have to say the bit we saw wasn’t very interesting.

 

Wednesday 6^th February – Still on the bus to Santiago!

At 9-30 am we arrived at La Serena, Chile and after a biscuit and a peach drink for breakfast, Nesta got a smoke!

Back on the bus and eventually arrived in Santiago at 4pm after 29 hrs. on the coach. We were met by a driver who didn’t speak English but did have meat and vegetarian sandwiches with him (thanks Kay?) drinks and, bizarrely, sweets!!

Another 2 hr. drive and we finally got to Valparaiso and to the Ship!

The driver took the kids to their hotel and actually waited for them to check in, have a shower, get changed and then brought them back to the ship J He did get a tip!!

Had a nice meal with the kids in the Veranda Restaurant and showed them around the ship. Sent them back to their hotel by taxi at 11-30pm after a very long day and all slept well!

 

And so another cruise finishes… Just found out that the ship will be 93% full for the next cruise, so lots more people on this one. More queues but less shoving than at Christmas!

 

Saturday 2^nd February – Cusco to Puno.

Happy 21^st Birthday, Ellie!!!

Got the 7-30am train (the Andean Explorer) from Cusco to Puno across the high altiplano. It was like being in an Agatha Christie “Murder on the Orient Express” remake.

Only 15 passengers, leather chairs, table lamps and more staff than passengers. There were fashion shows and local folk music and dancing.

At a station half way between the two places, we all got out (to be met by souvenir sellers!) and had our photos taken at nearly 14,200 feet above sea-level.

A different troupe of musicians and dancers got on, so there was more entertainment on the way down to Puno.

It was also “Pisco Sour day” (the local cocktail) and Ellie was “volunteered” to go up and be shown how to make one.

During afternoon tea on the train, we were given bucks fizz and Ellie got a birthday cake and the whole train sang to her! (We assume that Audley Travel arranged this, as the cake and champagne we had organised for her were at the hotel when we arrived there!)

It seemed to be market day everywhere and it was quite surreal to actually go slowly through markets where the locals had to clear the lines to let us through and then reset their wares after we had gone!

When we arrived at the hotel, Martin was suffering from a headache so didn’t join in the rest of the birthday celebrations. As we now had another cake to eat, we skipped dinner!

Guess what – as it was Pisco Sour day, we had a free one and then for the “happy two hours” they were half price! Oh well!

 

                                                        Making the pisco sour!

                                                        Spanish birthday cake

                                                                  Happy birthday!

                                                                      Ian up high

                                 The locals rebuid their market once the train has been through